We have encountered both here, life in the form of food (cooking classes) and death in the Balinese fashion, which involves cremation.
Death, first.
Balinese Hinduism is a blend of Indian Hinduism, Buddhism, and animism. The dead must be cremated so that the soul can be freed from the material body and be reincarnated. But cremation is very expensive, because of all the offerings and accompanying features (to be explained). So when ordinary people die, they are buried until the villagers can make all the required elements, and then a mass cremation is held, usually every four to five years.
During our trip Ubud will have two cremations. One was a media event, because it was a royal cremation. You see, Ubud still has a royal family, and three members of that family have died recently. The town was packed with people and media, because this cremation was expected to be a great event. The royal family can afford to hold a cremation as soon as necessary, so since March they have been making all the required offerings as well as the sarcophagi, into which the bodies are placed to be burned, and enormous towers, which hold effigies (symbols) of the dead. The sarcophagi for the royals were enormous bulls, called lembu, and a four-legged winged creature, perhaps a Balinese dragon, maybe nine feet high and fifteen feet long. The bulls were black and decorated in red and gold, while the dragon was mostly gold. The tallest tower was 65 to 70 feet high, looking rather like a towering series of boxes, and elaborately decorated.
When we first arrived last week, the towers, lembu, and offerings were still being constructed in the courtyard of Ubud palace. On cremation day, last Tuesday, everything began with a procession, as the lembu and towers were carried to the cremation site. But there was more. First came two young people, a man and a woman, in ceremonial garb and carried in chairs by bearers. As young people, they carry the spirits of the ancestors; who they were specifically was not clear, though it was probably explained on Indonesian TV. Behind them came offerings, very elaborate containers carried on people’s heads or on small platforms, accompanied by gamelan, the Indonesian court music of drums and gongs. Then the lembu, the dragon, the towers.
This doesn’t sound like much, but it took nearly two hours for this procession to make its way past our viewing area inside a restaurant. It was hurry up and wait, as it moved several feet, then stopped. At one point, we were told that we were waiting for the king, who hadn’t finished his preparations, whatever they were. That was half an hour. After the last of the towers passed by, everyone crowded into the streets to follow, and C and I joined them as we walked the half-mile or so to the cremation site. Here, however, the crowd was even thicker and more tightly packed. From where the main road entered the site, we couldn’t see the actual site, and claustrophobia closed in. We turned back and missed seeing the body go down a high slide into the funeral pyre; we later learned from a woman who was there that she had feared being crushed against a wall at one point, so I’m glad we weren’t there
C’s friend M is married to a man from Ubud whose village is holding the other mass cremation the day that we leave. But we were able to see one of the preliminary ceremonies yesterday. Offerings that had been prepared by the women of the village over the past several months were carried to a temple opposite the graveyard where dead people had been buried as soon as they died. As it happens, this particular village’s graveyard and temples are in the Sacred Monkey Forest, a 15-minute walk from our hotel. The monkeys gathered around the graveyard, climbed up and down trees, chased each other and generally behaved like monkeys as more and more people gathered. C and I were wearing our sarongs, as we’d been told this was respectful. Again, we waited, waited, waited, went into the open-air temple to inspect the offerings, which included baskets of food, reed mats, and other objects to symbolize the dead person’s spirit to help separate it from the material body. At one point, a procession of men arrived carrying white or yellow parasols, which they carried into the area around the outer wall of the temple and inserted into parasol stands.
All the spectators were then told to leave the temple and the entrance to the temple. A small procession of people arrived carrying more offerings and knelt on the pathway in front of the temple. More waiting. Some women went among the kneelers sprinkling holy water by different methods: fingers, large leaf brushes, shorter leaf brushes. More waiting, then male priests did the same. After a while, all the kneelers and many others went to sit among the gravestones, with their family members. (I should add that a priest with a microphone gave instructions or spoke prayers from time to time.)
The ultimate purpose of this ceremony was to dig up the dead and begin the process by which the dead person can be separated into the five elements — fire, space, air, water, and earth — which will be returned to their source so the spirit can be recycled. By this point, we’d been at the site for three hours, and while shovels and hoes had been passed around, there was no sign that digging was about to begin. I went back to the hotel for a toilet break and to get more water, and when I returned it seemed that some digging had occurred, and the monkeys had gotten at some of the offerings. We watched the monkeys fight over and devour the food, and then we left to devour some food for ourselves. About four hours later, we saw M’s husband, K, who said he had just finished digging up his relatives, so it’s just as well we didn’t stick around.
Addendum: The New York Times had an article about the royal cremation, here.
Life (Food)
Our cooking lessons were taught by a woman who in her other life happens to be a silver jewelry designer. The classes were at a hotel/spa called Taman Rahasia, in a village just west of Ubud. We learned to make two basic sambal, or sauces, the red and the yellow, and several dishes that used the sambal, like satay, kebabs, a spicy shredded chicken, and vegetables with coconut, as well as ceremonial satay, corn fritters, fish grilled in banana leaves. We also learned two desserts, banana fritters and coconut-filled crepes. These dishes were cooked over two days, and we ate what we cooked — and I must admit the food was all delicious. Everyone was cooked in coconut oil, and our teacher assured us that fresh-pressed coconut, aka extra virgin coconut oil, is low in cholesterol and not at all unhealthy. Apparently, the nutritional analysis that shows coconut oil as high in cholesterol is based on oil pressed from dried coconut. I’ve bought a small bottle of the EVCO and will check nutritionists about this further.